Mens Catwalk Report : Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2013
Milan Collections : Men
There is a real buzz about menswear at the moment as more and more men are getting into their fashion and buying designer including sunglasses. And after great London fashion showcased at the first London Collections: Men Milan offered up its vision for men in spring/summer 2013. Come here to see what caught our eye at the shows and shop the top designer's sunglasses collections to complete your look in the here and now.
With the designer herself at the helm of her own label Jil Sander vowed to bring it back to basics and this is what she did. A trend for longer shorts also seen in London too gave a new silhouette for 2013. Retro sporty cuts with generous shirt sleeves and round necks pervaded. Graphic prints over tee shirt shaped knits were worn over buttoned tieless collars. Honeycomb prints dotted tees and double breasted suits. Burgundy, cobalt blue, mustard and piney greens were the palette which went to near peaches and cream at the finish in tone on tone tailoring.
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Real men and boys in Dolce and Gabbana made for a great show and a decidedly more earthy one that the current season’s sporty cool. Dolce and Gabbana's native Sicily provided the models on this occasion giving the spring/summer 2013 show an authenticity that really touched the clothes. A traditional tailoring with high waisted trousers and shorts worked with Renaissance and map prints added further flavour to the collection. Horizontal stripes began in shirts, then went to trousers and shorts. Dolce and Gabbana finished off models in a plastic aviator. Check out the trendy bright aviators and wayfarers with mirror finishes for some look at me shades to work this summer or kick back in Dolce and Gabbana's slick tortoise and blacks and straight metals.
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Burberry rocked Milan with shiny metallics. Rather than reinvent the wheel Christopher Bailey offered classic tailoring in blue, grey and black suits, but cut them with what will for men be one of the most interesting prospects for men dressing for next summer. Bright metallics in violet, fuchsia, blue, yellow and green came in raincoats, turtle necks, collars and accessories including sunglasses. The Burberry check was present in the odd bag.
It looks like the current trend for the bomber jacket will gain even more ground in 2013 as Burberry brought out micro prints and metallic versions. We loved innovation on retro scarf prints which became full fabrics and were cut into shorts and shirts, their stripes making excellent borders over hems and collars. Slim wayfarers in grey and blue were the sunglasses of choice for the Burberry man.
Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2013 ©Big Pictures
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John Varvatos, whose eyewear is new to Sunglasses Shop concentrated on the details for his spring/summer 2013 collection. His cool contemporary tailoring took on asymmetrical fastenings and a variety of lengths and cuts. Although the odd look was pure sixties London it was a gangster style that prevailed over the laid back rock star this time. The miniature metal aviator sunglasses with a curved brow bar were an exciting prospect for next year. For a sharp summer shop the sunglasses that are a hit with the likes of Russell Brand and Jude Law.
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With myriad variations on the suit with a serious nineties flavour Versace was flashy and sexy just as it should be.Versace felt the need to bring on the ultra shine for summer 2012, metallics have proved popular at Milan. Bombers and tees took on bold floral and classic Versace meandros key patterns. Micro prints were also in the mix. Gladiator style high tops were another retro detail and obviously flaunted the Versace Medusa logo.
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Calvin Klein Collection’s look last year under Italo Zucchelli was slick and minimalist with a sporty edge. Detail came through in texture such as snakeskin and colour restrained. One pale micro patterned suit appeared amidst tans, blacks and greys. Spring/summer 2012 was sports luxe through and through with micro textures and suit jackets teamed with sweat style trousers. A strict palette going to choice pale green or blue was white in the main. Eyewear was kept to large squared opticals for a retro look. We love this clean contemporary take on the wayfarer from .
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Prada continued the current season’s sporting theme in a focused collection for spring/summer 2013. Ms Prada had gone off quirkiness and had enough of the prints she revelled in this year for her retro golf wear inspired collection, there was not any of this in sight. She cut it right down to basics. You’ve seen stripes on the outer leg now they come on the inside thanks to Prada. Familiar shapes that classic sportswear has developed over the years were homed in on and presented at their most basic in tunics, knit and a re-imagined suit. White was the summer bright whilst blues, burgundies and grey kept things sober. Colour was sparing with pinks, yellows and reds offering accents in stripes and separates rather than the main event.
Sporting chic is definitely still on the agenda and is at it’s purest next spring/summer 2013 for men. Models wore a sporty buckled sandal that also had that pared down look that brought smartness into the clothes too. The sunglasses matched the retro sports feel in the form of an angular metal mix aviator. For now get into Prada’s fifties thing with the 14Os, we love this folding retro frame.
Prada Spring/Summer 2013 ©Big Pictures
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Roberto Cavalli had a bit of a glam rock moment in his spring/summer 2013 menswear collection. Lines from T. Rex songs appeared in rhinestones on the back of a jacket, on tee shirt fronts and even woven into prints calling us to 'get it on. bang a gong'. Delving fully into colour mainly in sea greens and blues tone on tone rapturous colour marked the look out from this year's giving the Cavalli man even more of an edge. Men’s bright metallic looks to be one of fashion’s biggest stories next spring/summer and Roberto Cavalli joined Burberry Prorsum and Versace with bright shiny pieces. Cavalli preferred cubans, belts and tailoring in his delivery.
Giorgio Armani leaves his customers spoilt for choice again with a myriad of looks to choose from. No bright colours for Emporio Armani though, white was the bright backing up signature grey, navy and tan touching momentarily on darker shades of sea green. Relaxed tailoring and knits were as wearable and as wantable as ever. Emporio Armani impressed us with a super cool sunglasses and shoes match. A dappled tortoise shell style effect over shoes echoed wayfarer style sunglasses worn by several models. The brand liked it’s current Supreme sunglasses (see below) so much that it sent them down the catwalk for 2013 too. We love their unique blend of sporty and retro.
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The Gucci man went for colour in a big way for spring/summer 2013. Along with pea green, orange, cherry red, scarlet and mustard, cobalt to cornflower to sky blue was worked head to toe in slim tailoring. Blue also came in Art Nouveau print sixties style making for smart patterns on open neck shirt fronts, silken bombers and trousers. Sophisticated open neck shirts had a great smart sports look, which seems to be one of the key directions for menswear currently. The iconic Gucci loafer with the horsebit décor was the only shoe needed and it looked great in new colours. More traditional print was worked too in pinstripe suits and polka dot ties. Sunglasses were interesting goggle style metal rimmed affairs. Shop Gucci’s classy take on classic at Sunglasses Shop.
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Sarah Burton OBE proves afresh why she is deserving of her recent Royal honour. Her vision for Alexander McQueen menswear, spring/summer 2013 is the more romantic option for those men left cold by an increasingly sportier menswear. Her painter’s palette gave archive choice colour and print to slim cool cut suits in monochrome and micro textures and prints. More luxuriance came through in texture from retro pyjama style shirts to a silky bomber to satin trousers. A master class in texture and colour makes Alexander McQueen menswear one of the strongest for the season. Scarves, shawl collars and open neck shirts continued the nostalgic theme. The crocodile print blazer is set to be the heart’s desire of the attention seeker next year without doubt. Classic Prince of Wales check reformed in dots and weave in print were amongst the micro-prints and textures that set the precedent for what is a growing menswear trend. The McQueen man is still in aviators next year. And who could blame him? Rock the coveted Alexander McQueen 4156s in riotous red for one hot summer sunglass this 2012.
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The Dsquared2 catwalk had a touch of the punk and the goth. We love the way it had this pasted on look as classic tailoring was cut with pvc, neon lines, leopard print and handfuls of chains, crucifixes and padlocks. Eyewear was surprisingly sober in simple rectangulars. That won’t stop us wearing the brand’s unique take on the aviator.
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Diesel was not the first collection to show a bit of nineties nostalgia thus far. Cool wearable looks containing some very nice details such a ribbed bomber, trendy micro textures and a lovely embellished leather blazer were some of the highlights. But what really excited us was little retro round sunglasses with clips ons bearing wiry prints. The current sunglasses collection has certainly made and impression with their unusual finishes, cut and edgy looks. Interesting elements such as textured metal and industrial inspired detail have gone down very well.
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Marc Jacobs brought Milan to a close with some Forties inspired looks. Dark almost floral microprints were worn head to toe. Horizontal stripes already seen at Dolce and Gabbana earlier on in the week are bound to be a hit next year and be all over the highstreet. Eye catching sexy fruity prints a pear or banana made for quirky Jacobs camo giving more choice to a more adventurous male dress where seem to be particularly digging their prints. Jacobs created a fruity bomber, his version of the trendy jacket that has also appeared in collections from the likes of Alexander McQueen, Versace, Gucci, Diesel, Burberry Prorsum thus far. Sunglasses wise Jacobs went for chunky hinge pinned David Hockney style rounds. We love an aviator with a twist and this one from Marc Jacobs with a thick shiny edge is a current Sunglasses Shop favourite.
Then it was to Paris where Paul Smith, Givenchy, Dior Homme and Lanvin took centre stage and did spring/summer 2013 their way.
See the brands from Paris and their sunglasses collections
Discover men's designer sunglasses from the hottest brands beyond the catwalk...
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Milan Menswear SS13